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⚙️ What chainring should I choose, and how do I get the alignment right?

Choosing a mid-drive chainring comes down to fitment first, chain-line alignment second, and size last — bigger rings add top speed, smaller rings add climbing torque.

July 12, 20262 min read

⚙️ What chainring should I choose, and how do I get the alignment right?

A mid-drive replaces your crankset with a single front chainring, so pick it thoughtfully. In priority order:

  • Fitment / chainstay clearance comes first. The ring has to clear your frame and chainstays. Print our actual-size motor template and check before you buy — grab the printable templates via the Fitment Quiz. The relevant actual-size downloads are the Bottom Bracket Measurement Guide, the BBS02 750W (68–73mm) template, and the BBSHD 1000W (68–73mm and 74–100mm) templates.
  • Chain-line alignment second. The motor pushes the chainring outboard, so choose a ring with the right offset to reach your smaller (higher-speed) rear cogs cleanly. Chains run best in a straight line. Aftermarket rings like the Lekkie Bling Ring pull the chain 5–10mm inboard for a noticeably better chain line and quieter running.
  • Size last — it just trades speed for torque:
- Larger ring (e.g., 52T) = higher top speed (shift diligently so you don't lug the motor). - Smaller ring (28–42T) = more climbing torque, keeps the motor RPM up and cooler on hills and off-road. This is the standard pick for steep or loaded riding. - Medium ring = balanced all-arounder. Chainring alignment: an aftermarket ring pulling the chain inboard for a straighter chain line Gearing chart showing how a larger chainring adds top speed and a smaller ring adds climbing torque

The motor makes more than enough torque to spin your higher gears, so most riders don't need a huge ring.

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