🛠️ Classic Pain Points (Read This If You Get Stuck)
Ten years of support calls, distilled. Almost every install that stalls, stalls on one of these:
- Seized bottom bracket. The single most common wall, especially on older bikes. Penetrating oil + time + a breaker bar usually wins; if not, a bike shop will remove it for ~$20–40. Don't wreck your frame forcing it.
- Motor won't seat in the shell. Nearly always an intact under-BB cable guide or burrs/weld ridges inside the shell. Remove the guide, file the shell smooth, try again. (Mid-drive Step 3.)
- Motor rotates or "noses down" under power. Under-torqued inner lockring. Re-torque to ~50 Nm and Loctite it.
- Error 30 on first power-up. A half-seated Higo connector. Reseat every plug; if it persists, the display is the next suspect.
- Error 21. Speed-sensor magnet missing, misaligned, or the gap is too big. Reset to a 5–10mm gap.
- Chain drops or is noisy in low gears. Chainline is too far outboard and/or chain length is wrong. Re-check chain length and consider a Lekkie ring to pull the chainline inboard.
- Wrong-side pedal. The left pedal is reverse-threaded, coming off and going on. Forcing it the wrong way strips the crank.
- "PAS 1 is jerky, the kit must be faulty." It's not faulty — it's the abrupt factory programming. It can be smoothed out later with the USB programming cable.
- Torque arm skipped on a hub kit. Don't. On aluminum/carbon forks this is a safety issue, not a nicety.
If you're stuck on any step, reach out — Mon–Sat, 8am–5pm PST, live email and chat. Send a photo. We'd much rather talk you through it than have you force something.